I just returned from a weekend trip to Edinburgh, Scotland
with a few friends from our group. Though I learned a lot and have much to
share, I have to admit my experience was marred by my sickness and the cold,
wet weather. The first day I slept at our hostel all day long and tried to
speed up my recovery. I did the bulk of my sightseeing during Saturday and
Sunday. I kept a journal while there, which I will synthesize into a single
post below.
Shakespeare &
Scotland: Background
Macbeth is the
only play Shakespeare set in Scotland. It was written sometime between 1603 and
1607, which implies that its development had some relation to King James I’s
ascension to the English throne. At this pivotal moment in history, the two
kingdoms of England and Scotland merged underneath a single ruler. The play
seems to celebrate King James’s ancestors. Some scholars argue that the parade of
eight kings in Macbeth’s vision in Act IV compliments King James I. Though
Shakespeare borrows from Scottish history as depicted in the oft-read history
of England, Scotland and Ireland, Holinshed’s
Chronicles, he deviates significantly from the real history. In reality,
Macbeth was a well-liked and capable king.
Saturday
It is freezing cold and pouring more rain than I have yet
seen in a single day in the UK. This morning I went on a guided tour provided
for free by my hostel. I got soaked to the bone, but I also learned a lot about
the history of Edinburgh. Our first stop was the famous historical cemetery,
Greyfriars Kirkyard. The first burials were from the late sixteenth century,
which dates the cemetery to Shakespeare’s time. The graveyard had a beautifully
eerie aura. The gravestones below show the antiquated beauty of the
arrangement:
From my History of Crime and Punishment class, I knew that
grave robbing was a problem in London in the eighteenth and nineteenth
centuries. I learned that was also a problem that seriously plagued Edinburgh
in that time. Medical schools and researches were desperate from dead bodies to
use for instruction and research. Their attempts to retrieve the bodies of
executed convicts aroused opposition by the common people. As corpses became
more difficult to obtain, the value of these corpses increased, which prompted
some people to rob the freshly dug graves of the deceased. The iron safe below
was placed over a grave to prevent such grave robbers from digging up the body
to sell it:
We left the graveyard and walked along the “Royal Mile,”
which is the main thoroughfare in Edinburgh. This ancient road leads from
Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood Palace. The
tour guide discussed St. Giles Cathedral, which was officially dedicated to the
patron saint of Edinburgh in 1243. Most believe that it had been in use for
several centuries before this date. She also pointed out Holyrood Palace, which
is the official British royal residence in Scotland. Queen Elizabeth II stayed
there recently as she does for one week each summer for engagements and
ceremonies. This magnificent edifice was founded in 1128. During Shakespeare’s
time, King James VI of Scotland lived in the palace from boyhood until he moved
to London and became King James I of England in 1603.
We finished our tour at Calton Hill. This small hill
normally would have led to gorgeous 360 degree views of Edinburgh.
Unfortunately, today was terribly foggy and almost nothing could be discerned
from the landscape. I did find the National Monument interesting, however. It
was intended to mimic the Parthenon and to honor the Scottish soldiers killed
in the Napoleonic wars. Construction started in mid-nineteenth century but had
to be stopped several years later because the council ran out of funding. It
was a source of embarrassment for Edinburgh residents, which earned it the
nickname “Scotland’s Disgrace.” The many proposals to finish the edifice have
met a lack of local enthusiasm due to a general acceptance of the monument as
it stands.
Sunday
Because today was my last day, I wanted to make sure that I
saw the most dominating attraction of Edinburgh – the castle. Below is the
staggering view of the castle from our hostel:
Photographs were not allowed in the castle. The interior of
the fortress was beautifully decorated in a sixteenth century style for the
most part despite its 900 BCE origins. The dazzling Great Hall, which is the
most regal example of sixteenth century décor, is the chief place of state
assembly in the castle. The highlights of the castle tour were Mons Meg cannon and
St. Margaret’s chapel. Mons Meg, a fifteenth century cannon, was displayed
outside St. Margaret’s Chapel. I thought it was cool that the cannon was fired
in salute on the day of Mary Queen of Scots’ marriage. St. Margaret’s Chapel is
the oldest building in the castle. It dates from the twelfth century and is
still used for weddings.
After I saw the castle, I met with a friend from our group
at a nearby pub. I tried haggis and found it absolutely disgusting. We said our
goodbyes so I could finish up my school assignments in the common room of this
noisy, lively hostel. I have enjoyed the fun of staying in a hostel, but I am
ready to be back in my private room in London.
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